Introduction: What you’ll learn—and why it matters
Dermaplaning is one of the most-loved services in professional skincare because clients see and feel results immediately. Performed correctly, it delivers a polished surface, better makeup laydown, and improved product penetration—plus it’s an ideal base for enzymes, LED, and light peels. In this guide, I’m answering the most common dermaplaning FAQs for estheticians with clinic-tested advice you can use today. We’ll cover safety and contraindications, cadence, blade and handle selection, aftercare, troubleshooting, documentation, and revenue-boosting add-ons—so you can work faster, safer, and with greater confidence.
Free Resource: Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart (PDF) — chair-side guidance for #10, #10R, #14, #15, #22 plus handle compatibility.
Download Free →Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart
What is professional dermaplaning? How it works in practice
Professional dermaplaning is a mechanical exfoliation technique that removes superficial stratum corneum and vellus hair using a sterile, single-use blade held at ~45° on taut skin. The goals: reveal a smoother texture, enhance product penetration, and prime the skin for adjunct therapies.
- Tools & setup (quick reference):
- Handles: #3 handle for facial blades; #4 handle for #22 (body work where permitted).
- Blades: #10, #10R (“butter”), #14, #15 for face; #22 for broad, flat body surfaces (jurisdiction-dependent).
- Technique: light feathering strokes, short-to-medium passes, consistent tension, single use per client, immediate sharps disposal.
Pro tip: Keep two blades on the tray—a plane blade (#10 or #14) and a detail blade (#15). Swapping at the right moment increases precision and decreases nick risk.
Safety first: contraindications & when not to dermaplane
A safe decision today is worth more than a risky “yes.” I separate contraindications into absolute and relative:
Absolute (do not perform):
- Active pustular/inflamed acne or open lesions
- Unhealed injury, recent aggressive procedure, or sunburn
- Current isotretinoin use (follow medical guidance on timelines)
Relative (case-by-case):
- Barrier-impaired skin (eczema/rosacea flares), uncontrolled sensitivities
- Recent high-strength retinoids/peels (adjust timing)
- Poor aftercare compliance or unrealistic expectations
Sanitation & sharps protocol:
- Sterile, individually wrapped single-use blades only
- Aseptic room setup; sharps container within arm’s reach
- Document lot numbers if required by your SOP
Chair-side script: “I’m seeing active lesions today. Dermaplaning could worsen irritation, so let’s calm your skin first and reschedule. That way we protect your barrier and your results.”
Myth or fact: does hair grow back thicker or darker?
Myth. Dermaplaning removes vellus hair. Because the hair is cut blunt at the tip, clients may feel a different texture during regrowth, but the follicle, color, and thickness do not change.
How I explain it:
“We’re removing peach fuzz at the surface. It grows back at the same rate and thickness. You may feel a soft, blunt tip as it returns, but it won’t grow darker or thicker.”
How often should you dermaplane clients?
Most clients do best every 3–4 weeks, aligned with epidermal turnover. Adjust by skin type and goals:
- Normal/resilient: every 3–4 weeks
- Sensitive/reactive: every 4–6 weeks; pair with gentler add-ons (LED, enzyme vs. peel)
- Event clients: run a trial service; book the event visit 3–5 days prior
Red flags to space services: persistent erythema >48 hours, unusual tenderness, or repeated nicking (often a prep/blade/technique issue).
Blade & handle guide: #10 vs #10R vs #14 vs #15 vs #22
Right blade, right moment—this alone lifts outcomes and efficiency.
- #10 (broad belly): Efficient on flat planes (cheeks/jaw). Everyday workhorse.
- #10R (“butter”, rounded tip): Most forgiving starts/finishes; great for new clients and reactive areas.
- #14 (long tapered edge): Fast coverage for experienced pros; excellent on broad planes—caution at corners.
- #15 (fine point): Precision for brows, upper lip, nasal contours.
- #22 (broad curved edge, #4 handle): Body work and very broad planes (where permitted). Not for facial contours.
Handle compatibility: #3 for #10/#10R/#14/#15; #4 for #22.
Pro tip: Plane first with #10 or #14, then swap to #15 for curves. Don’t force a plane blade into tight areas.
Free Chair-Side Helper: Printable Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart
Pre-care & aftercare: scripts your clients will follow
Pre-care (share at booking + confirm day-of):
- Pause strong actives (Rx retinoids, high-strength acids) per your SOP
- Avoid waxing/laser immediately prior
- Arrive with clean, makeup-free skin if possible
Aftercare (send via email/print):
- Gentle cleanse, hydrating serum; mineral SPF 30+
- Avoid intense exercise/heat the first day; skip strong actives 48–72 hours
- Resume actives gradually as tolerated
Retail tie-ins: calming hydrators, mineral SPF, barrier-support serums, gentle weekly enzyme. These improve comfort and retail per visit.
Breakouts, redness & sensitivity: troubleshooting when skin pushes back
- Lingering redness >24 hours: reduce pressure/passes, confirm prep, consider LED instead of peel.
- Bumps post-service: distinguish purge vs. irritation; simplify homecare; extend the interval.
- Nicks happen: stop and compress, follow aseptic protocol, document, then reset your pace and angle.
Anecdote: A long-time client started tretinoin between visits without telling me. Two test strokes felt “squeaky,” so I stopped, moved to barrier repair for two weeks, and we rescheduled. She thanked me for protecting her skin—then purchased a series once her barrier recovered.
Scope of practice & documentation (protect yourself and your client)
Confirm your state/province requirements and align your SOPs. At minimum, keep:
- Signed informed consent and updated intake (medications, skin history)
- Treatment notes (blade type, add-ons, notable responses)
- Aftercare provided and rebook date
- Sharps disposal compliance per local regulation
If medical oversight is required in your setting, build that into your pre-service checklist.
Add-ons that boost results and revenue
Dermaplaning pairs beautifully with low-irritation enhancements:
- Enzyme boosters for brightening with minimal downtime
- LED (red) for calming and perceived value
- Light peels when appropriate (after tolerance is established)
- Retail bundles (calming serum + mineral SPF + gentle weekly enzyme)
Business tip: Offer series or memberships with a modest value add (e.g., complimentary LED on first visit). Track rebook rate, AOV, and retail per visit so you know what to repeat.
Client FAQs you can copy/paste
Can I dermaplane acne-prone skin?
Yes—avoid pustular lesions and focus on gentle pairings.
Will I break out after?
A small subset may purge; most don’t. Follow aftercare and avoid heavy occlusives the first day.
Can I wear makeup after?
Ideally wait until the next day. If needed, choose breathable formulas and remove gently.
How long do results last?
Typically 3–4 weeks, depending on skin cycle and homecare.
What should I avoid post-service?
Strong acids/retinoids for 48–72 hours, or per your clinical judgment.
Chair-side workflow (laminate this if you like)
- Consult & consent → goals, contraindications, medication check
- Prep → cleanse, aseptic setup, tension test
- Plane → planes first (#10/#14), detail (#15)
- Pair → enzyme/LED/light peel as appropriate
- Protect → calm + SPF; review aftercare; rebook
- Document → blade, response, retail, next visit
Conclusion & next steps
Consistent dermaplaning outcomes come from consistent decisions: the right candidate, cadence, blade, and aftercare—every time. Use the guidance above to streamline your service, protect the barrier, and elevate client satisfaction and rebook rates.
Free Resource: Keep decisions fast and safe with the Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart (PDF)—perfect for training and tray-side use.
Download Free
If you’re ready to go deeper, enroll in our Advanced Dermaplaning training (technique, safety, and protocols), and visit our consent/intake templates to standardize your documentation.