Dermaplaning is one of the most effective, client-loving, glow-boosting treatments in the esthetics industry — but only when your tools, technique, and setup are correct.
After training thousands of estheticians, I can confidently say:
Most dermaplaning issues are caused NOT by skill, but by tool mistakes.
Wrong blade. Wrong handle. Wrong pressure. Wrong angle.
The good news? All of these are easy to fix.
In this guide, you’ll learn the three most common dermaplaning tool mistakes estheticians make — and exactly how to correct them so you can work faster, safer, and more confidently.
Before we dive in, grab this free resource:
🎁 Free Download: Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart
Understand the difference between the #10, #10R, #14, and #22 blades in seconds. Perfect for choosing the right tool for each skin type.
Download it here:
Free Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart
Mistake #1: Using the Wrong Blade for the Wrong Skin Type
The blade you choose determines:
- How smooth the glide feels
- How much dead skin is removed
- How safely you can work around contours
- How irritated (or not!) your client becomes
- How confident your strokes will be
Yet this is the #1 area where estheticians get confused — because not all dermaplaning blades are meant for the same job.
Let’s break it down.
The #10 Blade — A Versatile Option for Facial Dermaplaning (When Used Correctly)
Many estheticians first learn dermaplaning with the #10 blade, and for good reason — it’s widely available, clinically trusted, and offers excellent exfoliation when paired with proper technique.
While other blades (like the #10R and #14) offer enhanced precision or gentler control, the #10 blade absolutely can be used safely and effectively on the face when you understand how to work with its shape.
Why many professionals still choose the #10 blade for facial work:
- Reliable sharpness for clean exfoliation
- Smooth glide when the correct angle is maintained
- Excellent control on broad areas like the cheeks and forehead
- Versatility for both learning and professional treatments
The #10 blade does have a slightly larger curved belly, which means:
- It requires a bit more skill in tighter areas
- You must be more intentional with your angle and pressure
- Mastery of hand positioning is essential for contour work
But with solid training, it becomes a dependable and effective blade option for full-face dermaplaning.
Best Uses for the #10 Blade:
- Full-face dermaplaning
- Beginner-to-intermediate estheticians learning depth control
- Clients needing moderate exfoliation without an aggressive edge
- Broader facial zones like cheeks, forehead, chin, and jawline
Many estheticians use the #10 blade successfully every day — it simply requires good technique, proper stretch, and a steady 45-degree angle.
The #10R (Butter Blade) — Best for Beginners + Sensitive Skin Clients
This is the most forgiving blade on the market — perfect for new estheticians or cautious strokes.
Why it works:
- Rounded safety tip
- Less risk of nicks
- Gentle on sensitive, reactive skin
- Ideal glide for cautious providers
Use the #10R for:
- Sensitive clients
- Barrier-compromised clients (when appropriate)
- Retinol users (with proper protocols and timing)
- Beginner estheticians building confidence
- First-time dermaplaning clients
The #14 Blade — Best for Precision & Experienced Estheticians
This is the industry favorite for a reason. It gives the closest, cleanest exfoliation when used correctly.
Why advanced estheticians love it:
- Longer blade for faster coverage
- Sharp edge for ultra-smooth results
- Great around cheekbones, chin, and forehead
- Reduced friction for less irritation when technique is correct
Use the #14 for:
- Experienced professionals
- Congested or textured skin
- Clients needing deeper exfoliation
- Dermaplaning before chemical peels (with proper training)
The #22 Blade — For Large Facial Areas (Advanced Only)
Large, sharp, and shaped for speed — not for beginners. This blade should only be used if you have strong confidence, control, and advanced training.
✅ The Fix for Blade Mistakes
Always choose your blade based on:
- Skin type
- Texture level
- Client sensitivity
- Your experience
- Desired exfoliation intensity
Cheat code: use the free chart below as your “at-a-glance” tool selector.
Download the Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart:
Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart
Mistake #2: Using the Wrong Handle (Or Using It Incorrectly)
If dermaplaning feels awkward, unsafe, slow, or uncomfortable… it’s almost always a handle issue.
Most estheticians don’t realize how much the handle affects:
- Grip
- Pressure control
- Precision
- Speed
- Blade stability
Common Handle Mistakes
1. Using a universal handle that doesn’t lock the blade securely
A loose blade = reduced control = higher risk of nicks and uneven exfoliation.
2. Using a handle with poor grip texture
Smooth metal handles can slip easily — especially with gloves or product on your fingers.
3. Using the wrong handle for your blade type
Not all blades fit all handles. This leads to bending, wobbling, or unsafe attachment.
4. Holding the handle incorrectly
Your control hand should be stable but relaxed, like holding a pencil — not gripping a razor with tension.
✅ The Fix for Handle Mistakes
The best dermaplaning handle should have:
- A solid lock-tight mechanism
- A non-slip grip
- Appropriate weight (not too light, not too heavy)
- Balanced control for consistent angles
If you need professional handles that match your blades:
Professional Dermaplaning Handle
Mistake #3: Incorrect Pressure, Angle, or Technique Because of Poor Tool Setup
You can be highly trained… but if your blade isn’t positioned correctly on the handle, everything feels wrong.
Incorrect tool setup causes:
- Nicking
- Dragging
- Skipping
- Uneven strokes
- Uneven exfoliation
- Blade chatter
- Client discomfort
- Slow service times
All of these problems make estheticians think they need more “talent” or are “bad at dermaplaning”… but really, they just need better tool setup and technique.
✅ The Fix: 4 Tool Setup Essentials to Check Every Time
1. The blade must be aligned perfectly straight
Even a 1–2 mm misalignment creates drag and uneven exfoliation. Visually confirm alignment before each service.
2. The blade must lock firmly into place
If it wiggles:
- Replace the blade
- Replace the handle if needed
- Never “make it work”
3. Your working angle should be around 45 degrees
Not 30. Not 60.
A 45-degree angle provides safe, effective exfoliation without digging into the skin.
4. Pressure should be featherlight
You are removing dead skin and vellus hair, not shaving a beard.
If your blade is sharp and your technique correct, the tool does the work for you.
Bonus: The “Big 3” Dermaplaning Tool Red Flags
These are warning signs that your tools are holding you back:
1. You feel like you have to “pull” or “drag” to exfoliate
Likely cause: dull blade or incorrect angle.
2. Your strokes feel choppy instead of smooth
Likely cause: poor handle grip, misaligned blade, or too much tension in your hand.
3. You’re seeing more post-treatment redness than usual
Likely cause: blade isn’t sharp enough or your angle/pressure is too aggressive.
Fix your tools first — and you’ll often see an instant improvement in your results.
Troubleshooting: How to Fix Nicking, Dragging & Skipping
Nicking
Common causes:
- Angle too steep
- Unsteady hand or inconsistent pressure
- Blade too sharp for your pressure control
Fix it by:
- Resetting to a 45-degree angle
- Slowing your stroke and breathing
- Switching to a #10R for more forgiveness on sensitive clients
Dragging
Common causes:
- Dull blade
- Incorrect skin prep (too dry or product-heavy)
- Working over active inflammation or lesions
Fix it by:
- Changing the blade every 1–2 clients (or sooner if needed)
- Ensuring proper, oil-free prep
- Avoiding contraindicated areas
Skipping
Common causes:
- Inconsistent pressure
- Uneven blade alignment
- Not stretching the skin properly
Fix it by:
- Checking blade lock and alignment
- Stretching the skin firmly with your opposite hand
- Smoothing your stroke rhythm (no stop-start motions)
Choosing the Right Dermaplaning Supplies for a Safe, Efficient Treatment
Your tools determine your confidence and your results.
Every professional dermaplaning setup should include:
- #10R blades (for sensitive or first-time clients)
- #14 blades (for experienced estheticians and quicker coverage)
- Professional dermaplaning handle
- Alcohol prep pads
- Enzyme cleanser or prep
- Finishing serums and SPF
- Sharps container for safe disposal
If you need to upgrade your tools:
Shop Professional Dermaplaning Supplies
Don’t Forget Your Free Blade Comparison Chart
This resource is your cheat sheet for choosing the right blade every single time.
Download it here:
Free Dermaplaning Blade Comparison Chart
Want to Master Dermaplaning Tools and Technique?
Small changes to your tools can dramatically improve your:
- Confidence
- Precision
- Safety
- Client results
- Treatment speed
- Professional reputation
Dermaplaning is a skill — but it’s also a system. When your blades, handle, prep, angle, and pressure all work together, you’ll deliver flawless results every time.
If you want to take your technique from “good” to “masterful,” your next step is here: